Šmartno and the Brda Wine Region: Things to Do in Slovenia’s Tuscany

In the west of Slovenia, near the Italian border, lies the wine region of Brda. This area is known for its rolling vineyards, picturesque villages, and panoramic views. Driving through Brda is an experience in itself: narrow roads wind through the hills, past old villages and abandoned hamlets, with countless spots to stop for a photo or a glass of wine. The Brda region is the perfect place to enjoy peace, nature, and gastronomy. Whether you come for a bike ride, a wine tasting, or a stroll through medieval villages, Brda never disappoints.

What Makes the Brda Wine Region in Slovenia Special?

As soon as you drive into the Brda region, you’ll notice how the landscape completely changes. While much of Slovenia is mountainous and forested, here you’ll find endless vineyards stretching across the hills. Winding roads lead you from one medieval village to another. The routes are narrow and sometimes bumpy, so it’s best to take your time. Luckily, there are plenty of viewpoints along the way where you can stop. From the higher hills, you can look out over vineyards, villages, and even neighboring Italy.

Things to Do in the Brda Wine Region

The Brda wine region is vast, offering plenty of great activities — most centered around wine and gastronomy. These are, in our opinion, the best things to do and see in Brda.

Climb the Gonjače Viewing Tower

Just a short distance from Šmartno stands the Gonjače Viewing Tower, a 23-meter (75-foot) tall monument with 144 steps. Built in honor of World War II victims, the tower offers panoramic views across the entire region. From here, you can see vineyards stretching endlessly into the distance, dotted with villages and hilltops. Next to the tower, you’ll find Restaurant Marica — a great place to enjoy lunch or dinner in the garden with views over the vineyards. The restaurant is open Thursday through Monday only.

Bike Through the Vineyards of Brda on an E-Bike

One of the best ways to explore Brda is by bike. At E-bikes Brda, located next to the Gonjače Tower, you can rent electric bikes that make cruising through the hills effortless. You can choose from several routes: an extensive tour past the region’s hidden gems or a special wine route that takes you along the most famous wineries. Both can be done self-guided or with a guide. It’s an active yet relaxed way to experience Brda’s nature and culture. Want to go on your own? You can follow this route past the well-known wineries.

Must-Do: Wine Tasting with Sacha

No visit to Brda is complete without a wine tasting. For a special experience, book this lovely wine tasting in the village of Kojsko. Here, Sacha, his wife, and father-in-law run a small family vineyard that has been passed down for generations. Quality is their top priority, and production is small, meaning most of the bottles are enjoyed locally and rarely exported.

During the tasting, Sacha passionately shares stories about the region, the history of his family business, and Slovenia’s political background. You’ll also learn about the unique soil, which was once underwater millions of years ago and still contains many fossils today. These minerals give Brda wines their distinctive flavor. A visit to this wine estate is much more than just tasting wine — it’s a deep dive into Slovenia’s culture and history, complete with local snacks and a warm welcome.

Explore Šmartno

The medieval village of Šmartno may be small, but it’s absolutely worth a visit. Home to around 200 residents, you can explore it easily in about two hours. Wander through the narrow streets, visit small churches, and stop by the Brda House at number 13 to see how people lived here hundreds of years ago. The village was completely renovated in 2012, and today Šmartno shines brighter than ever. Throughout the streets, panels show the restoration work that was done. It’s a place full of charm and history — perfect for a leisurely afternoon walk.

Dobrovo Castle

Another highlight of Brda is Dobrovo Castle, located in the village of the same name right next to the Italian border. This square Renaissance castle is one of the best-preserved in the region and was thoroughly restored a few years ago. Today, it houses an art gallery, museum, and restaurant. After your visit, take a short walk through Dobrovo itself — a peaceful village of about 300 residents. With its location, architecture, and surrounding vineyards, it’s an ideal stop during your Brda exploration.

Where to Eat in Brda and Šmartno

Brda and Šmartno are home to many wineries with their own restaurants, but we’d like to highlight two of our favorites in addition to the wine tasting we mentioned above.

  • Hiša Marica – Located in the heart of Šmartno, this charming restaurant has a warm, historic atmosphere. In the former farmhouse, you’ll enjoy seasonal dishes, homemade meats, traditional specialties like štruklji and prosciutto, and excellent wines. With its cozy interior, terrace in a picturesque alley, and friendly service, it truly feels like coming home. Closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
  • Konvin Winebar – Set among the vineyards of Brda, this inviting spot offers more than 200 Slovenian and Italian wines, many available by the glass. Alongside sparkling wines, they serve local cheeses, cured meats, and light dishes. With its relaxed terrace shaded by a plane tree and welcoming atmosphere, it’s the perfect place for an aperitif or laid-back evening.

Our Favorite Places to Stay in Brda (With a Pool!)

Guest House Valentincic is set in an idyllic location among rolling vineyards, right on the border between Slovenia and Italy. It’s the perfect base for exploring the beautiful Brda region. You can relax by the pool on comfortable loungers, enjoy wines from the estate’s own vineyard, and use the outdoor kitchen. If Guest House Valentincic is fully booked, Kamp Brda is an excellent alternative. Located on the edge of Brda, it offers bike rentals so you can easily visit nearby wineries. There’s also a pool, and both breakfast and dinner are surprisingly well-prepared. The rooms are modern and equipped with air conditioning — a must during the warm summer months. For travelers on a smaller budget, Zoi Apartments is one of the best choices in Brda. The rooms are simpler and the pool is smaller, but you won’t miss a thing. For a friendly price, you’ll enjoy a comfortable stay and a warm welcome from Luca, who’s happy to share personal tips for exploring the most beautiful spots in the area.