Gjirokastër is one of Albania’s oldest and most atmospheric cities. Tucked between mountains in the south of the country, this UNESCO city is known for its well-preserved Ottoman architecture. From cobbled streets and centuries-old houses to the impressive castle, Gjirokastër isn’t called the City of Stone for nothing. Whether you’re strolling through the old town, visiting traditional homes, or relaxing on a terrace with views over the valley, this characterful city transports you back in time. In this article, you’ll find the best things to do and tips for your visit to Gjirokastër.

What to do in Gjirokastër?

With the following sights and activities, you won’t be bored for a second in Gjirokastër.

Discover the heart of the city: Gjirokastër Bazaar

In our view, a visit to Gjirokastër begins in the old bazaar—the heart of the city. Here you’ll find a network of lanes filled with traditional shops and cozy restaurants. Most streets are car-free, making it perfect for a leisurely wander. It’s also the ideal place to pick up souvenirs: from handmade silver jewelry and ceramics to local products like honey and olive oil.

There are plenty of spots to sit down for a coffee or a cold lemonade. In the evening, the bazaar transforms into a lively meeting place, with restaurant and café tables filling the streets. It’s where you’ll truly feel Albania’s warm, welcoming atmosphere.

Wander through the Manalat neighborhood

The Manalat district sits on the city’s southern slope and might just be the most authentic part of Gjirokastër. This quiet area has hardly any tourist shops or eateries and is therefore less visited. Still, it’s absolutely worth it if you want to experience local life. In Manalat, you’ll wind through narrow, twisting lanes—some paths climb upward, others dip down—always rewarding you with a fresh, picture-perfect view.

Tip: Need a break? Taverna Panorama Zhuli is a great choice. It serves delicious traditional dishes and offers a beautiful view of the centuries-old castle and surrounding mountains of Gjirokastër.

Visit Gjirokastër Castle

It’s probably the first thing you’ll notice when you arrive: the imposing castle towering over the city. This is one of Albania’s largest and best-preserved castles. The oldest parts date back to the 12th century, but the fortress took its current shape mainly during the Ottoman period. Inside, you’ll find a maze of dark corridors and stone halls that once served as a prison, armory, and storage. Today, the castle houses a military museum where you can see old weapons, cannons, and even a downed American spy plane from the Cold War.

But let’s be honest: most people come for the view. From the old city walls, you can look out over the entire valley, with mountains on the horizon and the old town spread below you like a gray-white patchwork.

Walk to the Ali Pasha Bridge

Just outside Gjirokastër, hidden among the hills, lies the Ali Pasha Bridge. This centuries-old bridge was once part of an impressive aqueduct that carried water from the mountains to Gjirokastër Castle.

From the city center, it’s a 20–30 minute walk to the bridge. The route takes you straight through Manalat, past old houses and winding paths, until you suddenly reach a hilly landscape. From here, you can either descend toward the gorge or follow the side path that leads directly to the bridge. Both ways offer great views—especially at sunrise or sunset.

Tip: Be careful when walking across the bridge. You’re up high here, and there’s no protection along the edges.

Admire Gjirokastër’s Ottoman architecture

Gjirokastër is full of beautifully preserved Ottoman architecture and is rightly on the UNESCO World Heritage list. As you wander the city, you’ll see white stone houses with slate roofs and wooden window frames everywhere.

Want to truly experience how people lived here in the past? Visit Zekate House or Skënduli House. These centuries-old homes have been opened to the public by their families. For a few dollars you can buy a ticket and walk through richly decorated rooms with original furniture and handmade details. In the most special rooms, you’ll find numerous paintings and symbols—each with its own story.

Tip: Across the city you’ll also find other Ottoman homes converted into accommodations, such as the lovely Guest House Salaria and Boutique Hotel Musée—perfect for a memorable overnight stay!

Stroll past the Bazaar Mosque

One building you’ll likely pass is the Bazaar Mosque. Dating from the 18th century, it sits at the end of the main street in the old bazaar. Recognizable by its elegant minaret and white-plastered walls, it’s one of the few mosques preserved in Gjirokastër.

Tip: Pop into Te Kube, a charming café just below the mosque—the perfect spot to relax after a morning of sightseeing with a coffee or fresh juice. There’s also a small bookshop and fun souvenirs.

Visit the Cold War Tunnel Museum

Beneath Gjirokastër lies another world: an underground network from the communist era. The Cold War Tunnel was built in the 1970s on the orders of dictator Enver Hoxha as a shelter for the elite in case of a nuclear attack. The bunker has more than 80 rooms and runs under the city and even the castle.

A ticket costs just a few dollars and includes a guided tour. Walking through the dark corridors, you’ll pass former meeting rooms, quarters, and other spaces that were part of the bunker. Your guide explains the paranoia of the Hoxha regime and how the bunker remained a secret for years. It’s a fascinating look at a grim chapter in Albania’s history.

Try Gjirokastër’s local specialty: qifqi

No visit to Gjirokastër is complete without tasting qifqi—the local specialty. These small, round balls of rice, egg, mint, and herbs are fried in a special cast-iron pan. Crispy on the outside, soft and herby on the inside: a surprisingly tasty combo! We ordered them at Taverna Kuka, a cozy spot just outside the bazaar, where qifqi is served as a shareable side dish.

Take a dip at the Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër)

Syri i Kaltër, or the Blue Eye, is a must-see. This natural spring is about an hour’s drive from Gjirokastër and is famous for its intense blue color. Note: this is not the same Blue Eye as the one in the north near Theth.

Once you arrive, you’ll be captivated by the view. In the middle of lush greenery, crystal-clear water bubbles up powerfully from the depths. The spring is often compared to a giant eye—with a dark “pupil” in the center and turquoise rings around it. Swimming is not allowed to protect this fragile environment. Follow the path through the greenery to a viewpoint where you can admire the Blue Eye from above—arguably the best view. In summer it can get busy; arriving around 8:00 AM offers the best experience.

Tip: Continuing on to Sarandë or Ksamil after Gjirokastër? You can also visit the Blue Eye on your travel day—it’s practically on the route!

Restaurant tips in Gjirokastër

Whether you’re after a long, relaxed dinner, a quick bite between sights, or a cocktail with a view, you’ll find something to love in Gjirokastër. These are our favorite spots for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or drinks.

• Taverna Tradicionale KARDHASHI — A true taste of Albanian cuisine: from the local specialty qifqi to hearty stews and fresh salads. Located on a lively little square.
• Principal Tradition Klajdi — This traditional family restaurant serves local dishes and is a nice escape from the bustle. Our pick is the house specialty: a plate with pilaf, grilled vegetables, and several kinds of meat.
• Furra Restaurant — Come for excellent wood-fired pizzas and a good glass of local wine. Arrive early to snag an outdoor table right in the heart of the old bazaar.
• Snack Bar Simple — A no-nonsense snack bar popular for quick, affordable bites—think pitas, sandwiches, and simple but tasty meat or vegetarian plates.
• Hangover Cocktail Bar — While they don’t serve food, the cocktails are surprisingly good, and the bar sits right on the bazaar’s main street.
• Taverna Panorama Zhuli — Located in the quiet Manalat district. From the terrace you’ll look out over the castle and mountains while enjoying traditional dishes like fërgesë and qofte.
• Te Kube — Popular for breakfast and lunch, but also great for coffee, fresh juices, or a pastry. There’s a small shop with books and souvenirs, too.

Our favorite places to stay in Gjirokastër

Set on a hill yet close to the city center, an impressive Ottoman house is home to Guest House Salaria. The views are fantastic—over Gjirokastër, the castle, and the mountains beyond. The hosts are super friendly, breakfast is delicious, and rooms are comfortable with air-conditioning—all at a very friendly price. Have a bit more budget? Then DAM Stone Boutique Hotel is a fantastic place to stay—an old Ottoman building full of authentic details paired with modern design. It’s close to the bazaar and has a charming patio where you can unwind with a book. Prefer a social hostel vibe? Stone City Hostel is the best choice in Gjirokastër. The relaxed atmosphere is largely thanks to the friendly staff. It’s easy to meet other travelers, and the hostel organizes lots of activities. There’s also a shared kitchen, and you can choose between private rooms and dorms.

Guest House Salaria More info

DAM Stone Boutique Hotel More info

Stone City Hostel More info